Lifestyle
Inside Nihi Sumba, Where You Can Stay in All-inclusive Treehouses and Get Chocolate Spa Treatments
Remote, exclusive, and a favourite of the Beckhams.
BY Mary Gostelow  |  April 5, 2023
2 Minute Read
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There are 23 horses ready for beach polo or galloping along miles of gorgeous sand at Nihi Sumba—they’re Sumba Sandalwoods, named because islanders bartered sandalwood for steeds in the past.

Horse-back riding. Image courtesy of Tania Araujo

Yes, Sumba might be an island you have yet to explore. It is 11,153 square kilometres (4,306 square miles)—two-and-a-half times the size of Bali, which is 400 miles away. To get to Nihi, fly private to Tambolaka, or scheduled from Denpasar, and then it’s a four-wheel drive for about an hour.

Nihi Sumba. Image courtesy of Jason Childs

Nihi is a retreat for such household names as the Beckhams and Jennifer Lawrence, but no one knows they are there. Spread over 560 acres, much of it wooded and hilly. There are 33 villas, plus five residences, of which two are still for sale. The villas typically are sculpted into the cliff face, offering about 1,800 square feet inside, plus significant pools and outdoor dining.

Favourites are the Mamole Tree House, and the two owner’s villas, which can be rented when those global gentlemen, Chris Burch, ex-of Tory Burch, and flamboyant aesthete James McBride, are not on island.

What to do at Nihi? Meals, which are included, can be taken anywhere, and there’s a connoisseur’s list for buying favourite labels. Visit Chris and Charly’s Chocolate Factory for tastings, gorgings, and even facials.

Do not miss the main spa, a 90-minute hike or simple four-wheeler away. It has about 50 acres of its own hilltop forest. Peak-set yoga with 360-degree views says exercise has never felt this good. 

Back at base, a padel court will be joined next month by pickleball. And don’t overlook watersports, including surfing (only 10 a day are allowed to tackle “Occy’s Left,” named for Australian world champion Mark Occhilupo). Visit Nihi’s Sumba Foundation, which has built water wells, clinics, and schools for local villages, and the hotel boutique for Lorenz Baümer jewellery. Nihi’s a new way of life.

All images courtesy of Nihi Sumba.