In the realm of haute couture, where diamonds and precious stones reign supreme among the upper echelons of culture and society, there exists a parallel universe that is both enchanting and accessible: the world of costume jewellery, often dubbed “democratic jewels.” Renowned art book publisher Taschen is releasing a magnificent, gorgeously photographed, illustrated, and eloquently written hardcover tome, Costume Jewelry: The Collection of Patrizia Sandretto Re Robaudongo, featuring the work of photographer Luciano Romano, author Carol Woolton, and fashion critic and curator Maria Luisa Frisa.
Costume Jewelry meticulously documents significant costume-jewellery collections, preserving their legacy for posterity. It illuminates the artisans who crafted them, the designers who envisioned them, and their cultural importance. Although they may not boast “real” diamonds, emeralds, or sapphires, the design, skill, and cultural resonance of these pieces make them deeply personal and cherished. Often overshadowed by their more illustrious counterparts, costume jewellery has carved out a unique niche, celebrated for its artistry, creativity, and egalitarian appeal. This vibrant category of adornment, encompassing everything from bold statement pieces to delicate trinkets, serves not only as an accessory but also as a medium for weaving cultural narratives and personal stories.
Costume jewellery, with its myriad designs and eclectic inspirations, embodies a spirit of innovation, evoking images of the early 20th century when artisans, fleeing conflict in Europe, sought refuge in the US, bringing with them their expertise in resplendent jewellery design. As they settled in cities like New York, the artistry of costume jewellery flourished—Hollywood played a significant role in its proliferation, too—sparking a revolution in fashion that allowed women to express themselves freely through adornment. This newfound freedom was not merely aesthetic—it was a subtle act of defiance against societal constraints, enabling women to embrace bold styles and vibrant colours previously deemed inappropriate.
Classic Hollywood leading ladies from the 1920s to the 1960s often wore costume jewellery on film (before luxury brands began lending actors genuine pieces for the right role). For her tour-de-force performance in Mata Hari (1931), Greta Garbo wasn’t adorned with European haute joaillerie but rather pieces by Joseff of Hollywood. Similarly, Carmen Miranda’s trademark headdresses in the 1950s were not studded with precious stones but crafted with Lucite, rhinestones, and enamelling. The illusion of opulence on the silver screen demanded that designs work harder, with jewellery crafted to appear “real” despite its humble materials. Artisans laboured with painstaking precision to ensure that Grace Kelly appeared to drip with diamonds in her Hitchcock films, when in fact, she wore rhinestones in exquisite settings. Costume Jewelry is replete with images of actresses adorned with these accessories, accompanied by informative captions detailing the designers, creation dates, and semi-precious stones that dazzled on camera—on a budget.
One cannot discuss the allure of costume jewellery without acknowledging iconic designers who have left an indelible mark on the industry—each get a chapter in the book. From the whimsical creations of Kenneth Jay Lane to the opulent designs of Chanel, these artists have harnessed the potential of non-precious materials to craft pieces that resonate widely. Their work is often characterised by intricate details and eye-catching motifs that challenge the norms of high fashion. Such pieces have adorned the necks, wrists, and ears of fashion icons, from Hollywood starlets to royalty, each contributing to the narrative of costume jewellery as a symbol of identity and creativity.
The cultural significance of costume jewellery extends beyond mere adornment—it encapsulates moments in history and shifts in societal norms. In the post-war era, as women entered the workforce in greater numbers, costume jewellery became a means of self-expression and empowerment. The bold statement pieces that emerged during this period reflected newfound confidence and independence. Moreover, the introduction of vibrant tropical colours and innovative materials like Lucite and resin brought a fresh perspective to design, inviting a broader audience to embrace the joy of accessorising.
As the book delves deeper into the artistry of costume jewellery, it becomes evident that it is not merely a trend but an enduring legacy. Each piece carries a story, reflecting the era in which it was created and the vision of its designer. The meticulous craftsmanship challenges the notion that imitation gems are inferior to their precious counterparts. Instead, they celebrate the beauty of creativity and resourcefulness.
As the world evolves, so too does the realm of costume jewellery. Contemporary designers are embracing its rich history while infusing it with modern sensibilities, pushing the boundaries of what costume jewellery can represent. The rise of sustainable fashion has also influenced the industry, fostering interest in ethically sourced materials and eco-friendly practices. This evolution suggests that costume jewellery will remain relevant, adapting to changing consumer desires while retaining its core essence of creativity and self-expression.
Moreover, the digital age has opened new avenues for costume jewellery enthusiasts. Online platforms and social media have created communities where collectors, designers, and fashion aficionados share their passion and knowledge, fostering a renewed appreciation for the artistry of costume jewellery, ensuring its legacy will inspire future generations.
In truth, costume jewellery is far more than a decorative accessory—it is a vibrant tapestry of history, culture, and artistic expression. Costume Jewelry celebrates its beauty and significance, reminding us of the power of adornment to transcend mere aesthetics, encapsulating the stories and aspirations of those who wear it.
Taschen’s Costume Jewelry will be available for purchase this autumn.
All images courtesy of Taschen.
