Originally crafted for the pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, the Santos de Cartier timepiece has oft been touted as the first modern wristwatch, breaking away from the pocket-watch tradition that had been the fashionable norm in the previous century. Its distinctive square case and visible screws—once a hidden aspect of horology—have become defining aesthetic elements of the singular design and collection.
In 2025, Cartier introduces a new iteration of the Santos de Cartier, a smaller model that nonetheless reflects the proportions of the original designs. Measuring 27 mm x 34.5 mm, this latest design is available in both gold and steel, showcasing a blend of materials that enhances its elegance. Cartier maintains the design principles that characterise the larger models (as seen on Tom Cruise or Jake Gyllenhaal)—pure lines, precise shapes, and exquisite details—while contrasting these with the industrial allure of its visible screws.
One of the most striking updates is the sophisticated sunray-effect dial, which adds depth and character to the watch face. Complementing this aesthetic is a high-autonomy quartz movement, meticulously adapted to fit the smaller dimensions of this Santos de Cartier model through thoughtful engineering that ensures the watch not only looks refined, but also performs reliably, adhering to the high standards expected of the maison.
Versatility is a hallmark of the Santos de Cartier collection, and the new small model is designed to be interchangeable, offering a choice between a metal bracelet or a leather strap. Non-precious versions of the watch feature a smooth calfskin strap, while the all-gold model is adorned with an elegant alligator strap. Water resistance is another practical feature, with this small model rated for up to three bars (approximately 30 metres) so that the watch can withstand everyday wear, combining style with functionality. For those interested in a larger model, there’s a self-winding steel option that runs on the 1847 MC mechanical movement with a water resistance of up to 10 bars (approximately 100 metres).
Cartier’s introduction of the small models serves as a testament to Cartier’s ability to adapt while staying true to its roots, ensuring that the Santos de Cartier continues to be a sought-after timepiece for generations to come as serious collectors have long held on to pieces. By reimagining this classic design, Cartier invites a new audience who appreciates the intricacies of fine watchmaking to partake in its enduring legacy.
All images courtesy of Cartier.
