Rolex Daytonas are famous for fetching top dollar at auction, but they do pop up season after season on the auction block and other secondary markets. What does not show up very often are unique custom-order Daytonas. On 11 May in Geneva, Sotheby’s will auction a singular platinum version of the coveted model with a light pink mother-of-pearl dial and diamond hour markers during its live Important Watches sale. Made as a special piece for one VIP collector, the watch is fresh to the market.
Unlike many other luxury watch companies, Rolex isn’t known for producing custom orders. In fact, the Crown isn’t known for doing favours of any kind, so this particular piece is exceedingly rare. In a press statement, Sotheby’s head of watches, Benoît Colson, claims it is one of the most important Daytona examples to ever be offered at auction. “It is also an exceptional book ending to the sale of this extraordinary commission of four masterpieces, three of which have already found new homes through previous Sotheby’s sales,” he says. The watch is part of a single order of four custom Rolex watches created between 1998 and 1999 for the important collector. All four have the same reference number 16516, with the ending “6” referring to the platinum cases—made 15 years before Rolex ever made a platinum Daytona commercially available.
Image courtesy of Sotheby’s
The three pieces that sold at Sotheby’s before this current offering were as equally eye-catching as this mother-of-pearl version. The first Ref. 16516 to appear on the block also had a mother-of-pearl dial, but in a rainbow hue with Arabic numerals and small white indices replacing the 3, 6, and 9 hour markers; that iteration sold for US$872,100 (approximately HK$6.76 million) at Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Hong Kong. A Ref. 16516 with a lapis lazuli dial and a turquoise strap from the collector popped up at the same sale two years later in 2020 and fetched HK$25,375,000 (approximately $3,270,287, according to exchange rates at the time). It was followed a year later at the same sale by a lacquered turquoise Stella dial model with Arabic numerals and a brown leather strap, which sold in 2021 for HK$24,375,000 (approximately $3,138,562 according to exchange rates at the time).
Image courtesy of Sotheby’s
The identity of the collector remains a secret, but some have speculated that Patrick Heiniger, the CEO of Rolex from 1992 to 2008, commissioned the four unique Daytonas. If anyone were to have the power to order four singular versions of the model, it would certainly make sense that it was the former head honcho of the company. Heiniger passed away in Monaco in 2013 but was reportedly seen wearing a platinum Daytona during his lifetime.
Regardless, this is singular opportunity to own a unique Daytona. It is the last of the four to come up for sale and is the only version with diamond hour markers. It has an estimate of CHF 700,000 to CHF 1,400,000 (approximately US$858,830 to US$1,717,660/HK$6.66 million to HK$13.32 million). Based on its predecessors’ hammer prices, you can expect this timepiece to rake in well above its top estimate.
