The introduction of a new collection of watches is often met with a mix of anticipation and scepticism, particularly when it promises to redefine conventions. Atelier Wen, a brand that has steadily carved its niche in the luxury watch market, has done just that with its latest offering: the Inflection, that launched earlier this week in Hong Kong. With a novel range of hues and ideation, well, colour us intrigued.
This innovative collection marks a significant milestone not only for the brand but for watchmaking connoisseurs and collectors. Atelier Wen, renowned for its dedication to marrying traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, brings to the table with Inflection an ambitious new standard, utilising 99.9% pure tantalum—a metal rarely seen in watchmaking outside the most elite brands.
The Inflection collection comprises three variants, each showcasing tantalum’s unique properties. This rare metal, known for its remarkable corrosion resistance and striking bluish-grey hue, is not merely a choice of material but a visual statement. The watch’s case and bracelet are crafted entirely from tantalum, a feat that underscores Atelier Wen’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of contemporary haute horology.
“Tantalum matters on the wrist for three clear reasons,” explains Robin Tallendier, co-founder of Atelier Wen. “It is dense, more or less like 18k gold, so it feels substantial and has real presence. Its natural colour is a distinctive bluish grey that is unlike anything else. It is extremely difficult to machine, since the metal is gummy, slow to cut, and unforgiving of tolerances.” Historically, full tantalum bracelets have been extremely rare, existing solely as pièces uniques. Inflection changes that with a complete bracelet in pure tantalum, where every link and clasp component meets tight tolerances in a material that resists every operation.
The collection features a grand feu enamel dial created by the esteemed Kong Lingjun workshop, a name synonymous with exquisite enamel craftsmanship in China. The collection features a grand feu enamel dial created by the esteemed workshop of Kong Lingjun, a name synonymous with exquisite enamel craftsmanshipin China. This collaboration highlights not only the beauty of the material but also the cultural heritage that Atelier Wen seeks to celebrate. “We began with a principle, not a palette: balance,” Tallendier says of the colour scheme. “Inflection is about duality, expressed through material, geometry, and finish, so colour had to support that idea and sit naturally with tantalum’s bluish grey. It also had to work with grand feu enamel, which builds tone through multiple firings and can easily tip into harshness if pushed the wrong way. We chose tones that invite a closer look, serve the architecture, and age well, rather than colours that dominate the object.”
The Inflection collection is available in three distinct variants: the limited launch edition Yōu, which features a fumé enamel dial transitioning from pale green to deep viridian; the Mò, an obsidian black variant; and the Yuān, which showcases a stunning midnight blue hue. Each dial is not only a testament to the skill of the artisans involved but also highlights the intricate and labour-intensive process of creating grand feu enamel. The enamelling process, which involves multiple firings at extreme temperatures, results in a surface that is both glossy and durable, providing a perfect canvas for the watch’s unique design elements.
Yōu is calm and inward-looking. “The enamel sits on a hand-hammered 925 silver base, so light breaks subtly across the surface and the gradient gains a quiet sense of movement,” Tallendier notes. “It is a demanding colour to execute because a broad, balanced gradient in green is unforgiving during firing. When executed correctly, the dial looks even and composed, and the colour supports the case and bracelet instead of competing with them.”
Mò is tuned to be a profoundly deep black that absorbs light instead of returning it. “That depth creates a very pure stage for the case and bracelet, sharpening the read of concave and convex surfaces and making each transition in brushing, frosting, and polishing register with maximum clarity,” he adds. “On a 925 silver base, a black of this intensity requires careful preparation to avoid milkiness and micro-bubbling through repeated firings. The result is restraint, precision, and legibility without noise, which is the clearest expression of the design language.”
Yuān takes midnight blue and aligns it precisely to tantalum. “The metal carries a natural bluish tint, and Yuān extends that temperature onto the dial so the piece reads as a single composition rather than a metal plus a colour,” Tallendier explains. “The enamel opens gently under changing light, revealing depth without pulling focus from the overarching blueish tint of tantalum. The challenge here is consistency: if the blue drifts warmer or colder, the harmony with the metal breaks.” Traditional “lucky” reds or golds were avoided because, as Tallendier puts it, “those colors would dominate the object and reduce the watch to a statement about colour. We intended to let colour support narrative and craft, and to allow tantalum, geometry, and finishing to carry the conversation.”
At the heart of Inflection is the customised Girard-Perregaux movement, calibre 03300, a powerhouse renowned for its precision and finishing. This partnership with a prestigious Swiss manufacture speaks volumes about Atelier Wen’s aspirations. The support from the prestigious Swiss manufacture speaks volumes about Atelier Wen’s aspirations. The movement is adorned with features that pay homage to traditional Chinese aesthetics, including sweeping lines inspired by motifs of wind found in historical paintings. This attention to detail embodies a philosophy of harmony and balance, echoing the yin and yang dichotomy intrinsic to Chinese culture. Each component, from the ruthenium-plated bridges to the meticulously designed rotor, reflects a commitment to high-end finishing that is both functional and visually captivating.
Inflection removes flat planes from the case and bracelet, using alternating concave and convex forms with long, sharp transitions. “We did not simplify the design to make production easier; we increased its complexity to fully embrace our design vision,” Tallendier emphasises. “That makes manufacturing harder, then finishing harder again: vertical brushing must stay straight on curves, polished mid-links must remain clean, and long mirror-polished chamfers must be sharp without rolling edges.” On the wrist, the result is a character distinct from gold, platinum, titanium, or steel—delivering gravitas with a cooler, contemporary blue sheen. “Inflection is not a one-off experiment; it is a continuous collection in pure tantalum, manufactured and finished to an unheard of standard,” he says.
Given the complexity of tantalum manufacturing and limited production capacity—only 100 pieces of Inflection will be available in the first year—this collection is poised to become highly sought after. The by-application sales process further emphasises exclusivity, ensuring each piece finds a home with someone who truly appreciates its artistry.
Atelier Wen’s founders, Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, have long dreamed of creating a watch that transcends boundaries. With Inflection, they have achieved that, infusing high horology with Chinese cultural elements. You might have heard ‘East meets West’ ad nauseum, but here’s an accessory that encapsulates the phrase in form. Inflection promises to be more than a watch; it will be a lasting legacy, a conversation starter, and a celebration of artistry.
Regarding the market, Tallendier offers perspective: “It offers a clue, but does not give the full picture on its own. In Hong Kong, watch demand tends to move with cross-border travel and overall liquidity… For us, the situation is very different. Our orders for Inflection are driven mainly by committed collectors, through applications and allocations… Demand is global and tied to the work itself.” Inflection stands apart, a masterpiece in full tantalum.
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